At a Glance
Bias binding wraps a raw edge in a flexible strip of fabric. If you’re learning how to sew bias binding, start by opening one fold, stitching along its crease, folding the tape over the edge and securing the other side. Pressing and checking the back as you sew make the biggest difference.
Need tape for your next make? Explore Realm Wholesale’s bias binding range for colours and finishes that suit your fabric or contact us for bulk supplies.
What Is Bias Binding and Why It Matters
Bias binding is a strip cut diagonally across woven fabric, usually at 45 degrees to the grain. That diagonal cut adds stretch so that it can follow a neckline, armhole or curved edge more easily than a straight-grain strip. It encloses the raw edge and can either blend into a garment or become a visible detail.
It is available in single-fold and double-fold tape. Single-fold tape presses its long edges toward the middle, while double-fold tape folds again along the centre so it can wrap around an edge. The best type depends on the finish you want and the project instructions. Check the product description before you start, since the labelled width can refer to the tape before its final fold.
To make bias binding yourself, cut even strips on the bias, join their short ends with diagonal seams, and trim and press the seam allowances open. Feed the strip through a bias tape maker or press both long edges towards the centre, then fold again if your project calls for double-fold tape. You can also buy ready-made tape to save time on these preparation steps.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Gather your fabric, bias tape, matching or contrasting thread, a suitable machine needle, pins or clips, fabric scissors and an iron. A washable or vanishing marking tool and seam gauge can help you keep the first stitch line even. Test the stitch length and pressing temperature on a scrap of the same fabric and tape, especially when working with delicate or synthetic materials.
Choose tape that comfortably covers the edge without pulling. The right width depends on the fabric thickness and how much binding you want visible.
Realm Wholesale carries 25mm bias binding tape and centre-fold options in a range of colours, but always check the fibre, width and length on the individual listing before ordering or ask the Realm Wholesale team.
How to Attach Bias Binding by Machine
Knowing how to use bias binding starts with choosing a method that suits the edge you are finishing. This method works for double-fold binding on an edge that will remain visible. Start on a straight section if possible and leave a short unsewn tail for joining the ends.
- Press the fabric edge flat and unfold one side of the binding and align its raw edge with the fabric’s raw edge. Keep the right sides together and clip or pin without stretching the tape.
- Stitch in the first fold crease and keep an even seam allowance. Slow down on curves and follow the fold line as a guide, but check that the tape still reaches over the edge on the reverse.
- Press the tape away from the fabric, then wrap it around the raw edge. The back fold should cover the first line of stitching. Clip it in place and check both sides before the second pass. Ensure the folded edge on the reverse extends slightly beyond the first stitching line so you can catch it securely during the second pass.
- From the front, stitch close to the folded edge or stitch in the seam line so the stitches sit out of sight. If the reverse section must look equally precise, hand-stitch that final fold or sew slowly with the reverse visible. If you miss the back fold, unpick a short section and stitch it again.
For a closed loop, such as a neckline, leave enough tape at the beginning and end to join them neatly. You can join the ends with a diagonal seam before completing the final section, then trim and press the seam allowance open. On an open edge, fold the end under neatly or finish it according to the project instructions.
Getting Neat Corners and Curves
For an outside corner, stop one seam allowance’s width before the corner, fold the binding up at 45 degrees, then fold it down along the next edge to create a mitre. Hold the fold with a clip and check the front and back before stitching.
For an inside corner or tight concave edge, you may need small snips into the seam allowance so the fabric can spread and the binding can turn cleanly. Never cut through the stitch line.
On an outward (convex) curve, ease the binding around the edge in short sections rather than pulling it tight. On an inward (concave) curve, like a neckline, let the bias cut stretch gently as you pin so it lies flat. Press the tape into shape before sewing, then inspect for puckers after the first seam. A narrower binding can be easier to manage on a very tight curve.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Avoid stretching the tape as you sew, as this can cause a neckline to ripple when the binding relaxes. Feed the fabric and binding gently and let the machine move the layers through at a steady pace.
Too-narrow tape may not cover the first stitches on the back, while very wide or bulky tape can look stiff on a lightweight fabric. Test a short sample before committing to the garment.
Uneven folding causes missed stitches on the reverse. Press after the first seam, secure the second fold and check it every few centimetres. At corners, a rushed turn can leave a lump, so form and press the mitre before sewing it down.
Finishing Touches for a Professional Look
Once the binding is sewn, trim any loose threads and give the finished edge a final press using a temperature suitable for the fabric. Check the entire edge to ensure the binding is securely stitched on both sides, with no sections pulling away or exposing the raw edge.
The final appearance will depend on how you sew and finish the binding. For a decorative contrast, keep the visible stitching even and consistent. For a more understated finish, use matching thread and test the chosen stitch on a scrap first. The binding itself also affects the finished result. This is why the right width and fold are crucial, as they make it easier to cover the raw edge cleanly, especially around curves and corners.
Once you know how to sew bias binding and choose a tape that suits your fabric and edge, you can achieve a clean finish.
Find Quality Bias Binding at Realm Wholesale
Are you wondering how to make bias binding? Making bias binding from scratch takes time, so ready-made tape is a convenient alternative for your sewing projects. Realm Wholesale supplies bias binding in different formats and colours, including 25mm bias binding tape and centre-fold bias.
Connect with us to find the right bias binding for a neat, durable finish on necklines, armholes, corners and other raw edges. Choosing a suitable width and fold makes it easier to achieve the finish your sewing project requires.
Explore our sewing bias collection and choose the option that suits your project, or speak to the team about bulk requirements today.