If you’ve ever tried to re-create the finishing of store-bought clothes, you’ll know the importance of good hemming skills. A well-executed hem adds a finishing touch to every garment, giving it structure, preventing fabric from fraying, and making the entire look professional and complete.
If you’re a beginner working on your first sewing project or you just want to improve the quality and look of your garments, trying out different hemming techniques is the first step. Hemming is one of those underrated sewing skills that can make a big difference to your projects.
Realm Wholesale stocks all the tools and equipment you need to start your hemming training. We’re a family-run business with generations of experience in textiles and fashion. Get in touch with our expert team today to start your first sewing project.
In this hemming guide, we’re sharing the importance of hemming and the top five hemming techniques that you should try first.
Why Hemming Techniques Matter in Sewing Projects
Choosing the right hemming technique is an art in itself. You’ll need to consider the type of fabric you’re working with and the finished look you want. If you learn a few go-to hemming tips and tricks, you’ll be more equipped to handle different fabrics like chiffons, denim, or even upholstery designs.
Whether you’re altering clothes, sewing curtains, or making something brand new, learning new hemming techniques will help you give a strong finishing touch to your garments or upholstery.
Types of Hemming Stitches
Ready to learn different types of hemming stitches by hand? Let’s get started.
1. Double Fold Hem: A Classic for Everyday Projects
The double fold hem is one of the most common hemming stitch types, and for good reason. It’s strong, neat, and ideal for everything from casual garments to home decor. If keen to learn how to sew a double fold hem, here’s a basic guide:
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Fold the raw edge of the fabric up by 1 cm and press with an iron.
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Fold it again using the same amount of fabric and encasing the raw edge on the inside.
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Pin the fold in place to keep everything secure.
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Sew close to the inner folded edge using a straight stitch.
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Remove pins as you sew along the inner edge and press again for a crisp finish.
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Check that the hemline is sitting flat, even from the outside. If it is, you’re good to go.
2. Rolled Hem: A Clean Finish for Lightweight Fabrics
The rolled hem should be your go-to choice for delicate fabrics like chiffon or silk. It creates a tiny stitched edge that’s almost invisible. If you’re after a sewing hack for a rolled hem to get a minimal finish without bulky seams, here’s how you can achieve it:
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Trim the edge of your fabric so it’s neat and straight.
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Fold over a very small section (around 3 mm) and press.
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Fold again by the same amount and make sure it remains narrow along the edges.
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Pin or press the fold in place.
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Stitch very close to the edge using a short straight stitch.
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Give it a light press to keep the hem in shape.
3. Blind Hem: Seamless Stitches for a Professional Look
When you want a hem to disappear completely, you’ll need to use the blind hemming technique. This type of hemming in sewing is mostly used for formal trousers, skirts, and curtains. To make your hem completely invisible, here’s how you can sew a blind hem successfully:
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Fold the hem up once and press it flat.
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Fold the hem back on itself, leaving a small edge exposed.
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Use a blind hem stitch on your sewing machine or sew it by hand. (Watch out: the needle might catch a thread or two from the main fabric.)
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Keep the stitches small and evenly spaced.
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Unfold the fabric to give it a final press.
4. Overlocked Hem: Quick and Durable for Everyday Wear
An overlocked hem, or a serged hem, is perfect when you’re looking for speed and durability. If you have an overlocker, this hemming technique should be ideally useful for stretch fabrics and casual garments.
If you are in a hurry to finish an edge that won’t fray, here’s what to do:
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Set your overlocker with a matching thread.
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Trim the raw edge of your fabric evenly.
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Run the edge through the overlocker to clean it up.
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Fold up the overlocked edge once and press.
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Stitch down the fold using a straight or zigzag stitch.
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Press the hem flat to finish.
5. Hand Sewn Hem: Traditional Techniques That Still Work
Sometimes, the old school methods still work best. A hand hemming technique works for curved hems or delicate materials. It also gives you more control over stitch placement and finish.
There are various types of hemming stitches by hand, but a simple slip stitch is a great place to start. Here’s what to do:
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Fold the raw edge up by 1 cm and press.
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Fold again to hide the raw edge inside.
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Thread a hand needle with a matching thread.
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Sew small slip stitches along the folded edge, catching just a thread or two of the outer fabric.
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Keep your stitches small and evenly spaced.
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Press gently to set the hem in place.
When to Choose Machine Hemming vs. Hand Hemming
The right choice between machine hemming and hand hemming in sewing comes down to the fabric you use and the look you want to achieve. For thicker materials or projects where you need to work quickly, machine hemming is a better option. It’s reliable and fast, which makes it ideal for garments you wear often.
In comparison, hand stitching gives you better control when you need to work with precision or are hemming sheer, slippery, or vintage fabrics.
You don’t always need to pick one or the other. Some sewing projects benefit from a mix of both, depending on the section or finish required. The key is knowing which one works best for your fabric and your timeline.
If you’re still in doubt, our team of experts will be happy to help you get the right supplies and techniques for your project.
Get the Best Sewing Supplies From Realm Wholesale
Every successfully sewn hem starts with the right tools. Good quality pins, a hot iron, and a reliable sewing machine make all the difference. That said, it’s your choice of thread that pulls everything together. For the most common hemming techniques, a fine polyester or cotton thread will work best.
At Realm Wholesale, we stock a wide range of essential sewing supplies, including top-quality threads like Gutermann or overlocking threads, sewing needles, and marking tools to help you get that perfect finish. We’re here to help you find the right sewing supplies for your project at the right price for your budget. All the items in our stock are handpicked by our team of experts.
Take a look at our sewing supplies today.